Ah, Positano. She makes my whole heart sigh with longing and happiness and a better pace of life.
We ventured around hairpin turns from Sorrento to Positano and although we arrived on a particularly gloomy day (more on that later), when we arrived at the top of the cliffside, you couldn’t help but let out a sigh full of wonder. She really is as pretty as the postcards show.
We asked our driver to pull over to take photos and he laughed, but obliged. We hadn’t spent a full day there when I realized why he chuckled – there isn’t a bad view in Positano. If you stopped to take a photo at every beautiful, picturesque moment, you truly wouldn’t get anywhere.
However, here’s the thing. It hadn’t rained in the Amalfi for 8 months. EIGHT. and what did it do the second we arrived in Positano? Monsooned. I can’t explain this to you- I’ve never seen anything like it.
We stayed at Bucca Di Bacco right on the beach and every morning walked out onto a balcony with the view of Positano. We’d have a decadent breakfast and then meander through the small, windy alleyways stopping in stores to browse handmade leather shoes, Italian fabrics, and gelato (but, of course).
A word on the breakfast. We had breakfast everyday at our hotel(s). It was complimentary and put all American hotel breakfasts to shame. We had platters of pastries, made to order cappucinos, bread and cheese, hot eggs, fresh fruit, all on a patio overlooking the most beautiful places (both sorrento and positano) on earth. it.was.perfection.
You can stroll up and down the many alleyways, popping into shops and boutiques, gelato and limencello.
They make beautiful homemade sandals that you can customize in stores all along the way.
And be sure to venture off the beaten path. There are stairways all over the place that will lead you to the dreamiest views. It also helps work off the decadent meals you’ll indulge in. The food in Italy is so so fresh – the seafood, the vegetables, the wine – there’s nothing like it. In fact, I ate everything I wanted and with all the walking we did (always on an incline) – I came back home not a pound heavier.
Onto the food.
One day we went to the Ristorante Max – it’s an art gallery and wine shop. Is there anything more Italian? They have a beautiful terrace.
Then we pranced (/ hiked our way. Everything in the Amalfi is a hike. But a stunning one with gorgeous views and honestly, you get pasta and wine at end so who cares? I ate pizza and pasta and drank a bottle of wine a day and gained 1 whole pound) Anyway, Da Vincenzo. There isn’t a website. Because when you’re amazinngnesss foodgasms, you don’t need one. Word of mouth will suffice, because you pasta makes me want to cry happy tears of joy. You will dance back down the mountain to your (well, my) beach hotel. I promise.
But you’re in Italy, so you must eat eat eat. For lunch on the second day, we went to Lo Guarracino! I am not an exclamation person but !!!!!!!!!!!. ER MA GOSH. This place is tucked away from the main Positano beach. You have to walk around the side of Positano (that might not be geographically accurate but that’s what it feels like) – it’s a beautiful little walk! You’ll find all these little pathways and private beaches – where the locals hangout, if you know what i mean. And then there she is – La Guarracino (one of my favorite Italian words, it rolls off the tongue just right).
You’ll sit on this balcony, set up high on the cliffside overlooking endless blue waters. And this adorable family-run restaurant will make all your dreams come true. Half the time, we just tried to figure out who was who in the family, and eventually we just asked our waiter. It’s the cutest family!
ANYWAY – go! just go. right now.
One night we climbed up the hill and found ourselves as da vincenzo. Well, we had made a reservation – thank goodness and still needed to wait, but never fear – in the amalfi, you wait with a complimentary glass of champagne in your hands overlooking the most stunning views. I didn’t mind it one bit.
Oh it was scrumptious. The pasta, the seafood – get it allll. They’re so kind there as well. And it’s quite entertaining – you’re literally eating on the sidewalk with cyclists zooming past you and then just beyond it, the most calming view. It’s a beautiful contrast.
And for the GRAND FINALE. I MEAN, MIND BLOWN, JAZZ HANDS, HAPPY DANCE MEAL HERE. Holy smokes. It felt like a pretty woman moment, I was Julia Roberts at the fancy store just trying to act like I belonged at this place. It is sooooo dreamy. I can’t even tell you.
I give you…….(drumroll, please!) LE SIRENUSE, the most magical place on earth.
Michelin starred, the most stunning view in Positano, at the most beautiful hotel. More on the meal, but first – COCKTAILS. You must go to the Franco’s Bar beforehand, it’s in the same hotel. It gets crowded, but hi, you’re overlooking the most picturesque view so you can stand, you’ll survive. We managed to get a table and it was dreamy.
Go and get yourself a French 75 (if you’re like me, sans sugar) and cheers to being in the most wonderful place.
Then go into Le Sirenuse and get your mind blown. The kitchen is open and you can watch all the chefs work – I seriously stared at them. I watched them clean after dinner service was over in complete fascination. It was like a wonderfully coordinated ballet – they all knew just what to do. The food is PHENOM. Get everything, if you can. Try everything. Die of happiness.
So technically, we had one more meal in Positano after a day in Ravello – Chez Black – near our hotel and it was lovely, they gave us a heart shaped pizza and my heart went pitter patter.
ONTO – RAVELLO.